Cruise this canal in Tierra del Fuego, a passageway named in honor of the great evolutionist who crossed these waters in the H.M.S. Beagle. The narrow canal twists among fjords punctuated by low-lying mountains, icy glaciers, and green forests. Turn a corner to reveal a group of sea lions sunbathing upon a tiny rock island. Turn another one and watch an orca come up for breath. Some bends expose small villages, but in this remote wilderness, settlements are few and far between. Overarching all, the Chilean sky seems big and dramatic, whether full of sun or cloud.