9-Nights Taiwan: Natural & Cultural Riches - Marco Polo Journeys

Sun Moon Lake

A favorite of Chiang Kai-shek, Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan, a man-made lake 50 mi/80 km southeast of Taichung, sits 2,500 ft/760 m above sea level near the center of Taiwan.

Though it's beautiful, don't go to Sun Moon Lake for peace and quiet: It's by far the Republic's most popular tourist destination (especially for honeymooners and wealthy Taiwanese who built lavish vacation homes there). At times, such as Chinese New Year, it is more crowded than attractions in Taipei.

You'll enjoy the drive to Sun Moon Lake. The spectacular jungle scenery on the way there gives new meaning to the word lush.

A disastrous earthquake struck the area during the early hours of 21 September 1999. More than 2,000 people lost their lives, many buildings were destroyed and the lake actually changed shape because of the tremendous forces. The shrine in the center of the lake sank by 5 ft/2 m.

Everything is back to normal, however. The buildings have been replaced by stronger structures (able to withstand a magnitude 8 earthquake), and the damage to surrounding temples was repaired. The island in the center of the lake is now surrounded by pontoons.

Though the lake can be seen as a day-trip from Taichung, plan to overnight so you can begin your day with an early-morning stroll along the shoreline road. Expensive but worth the indulgence are the rooms at Chiang Kai-shek's former country retreat, now an upscale boutique-hotel. The lake is surrounded by pagodas and temples, including Huang-Tsang Temple and the Wen Wu Temple. Wen Wu is particularly nice—it has ornate architecture and unimpeded views of the lake.

Tours of the lake are by motorboat and usually include stops at an aboriginal village. This tour is quite commercialized, but if dressing up in traditional clothes and taking photos is your thing, you'll enjoy it, and it is free. There is a hard sell later on for the local produce. If you're staying at Sun Moon Lake, you can take day trips to Taichung or to the ancient city of Tainan.

Taroko Gorge

This gorge is simply spectacular, even considered by some to be the eighth wonder of the world. Many tours of it begin with a flight to the town of Hualien and then transfer to a bus or taxi for a ride down the East-West Cross-Island Highway: The gorge is along a twisting 12-mi/19-km stretch of that road. (Check on the condition of the road before you go—it's sometimes closed because of rock and mud slides, as well as for repairs.) If you have plenty of time, consider walking along the gorge or go rafting on the Li-Wu River within the gorge itself.

The entire 120-mi-/193-km-long East-West Cross-Island Highway, which links Taichung to Hualien, is itself engaging, passing through 38 tunnels—including the Tunnel of Nine Turns—and crossing a marble bridge (the Bridge of Motherly Devotion). Stop to look up at Juejiu Precipice, which rises 5,466 ft/1,695 m high, taller than the Grand Canyon.

Visitors seeing the gorge as a road trip from Taipei will likely stop at Lishan (a fruit-growing area nice for summer walks), Wuling Farm (and nearby Snow Mountain) and Kukuan (a hot-springs resort with the beautiful Dragon Valley Waterfall). Tien Hsiang is at the end of the gorge and is quiet and charming: It has a large white statue of Kuan Yin, and not far outside of town are the relaxing Wen-Shan Hot Springs (they lie in an open cave of solid marble, reached by crossing a swaying suspension bridge and walking down several hundred steps). If you have the time, continue on the highway to Taichung, spend the night, view Sun Moon Lake and then take a train back to Taipei. 65 mi/105 km southeast of Taipei.

Tainan

Taipei